Roosted on a rooftop at the heart of Singapore’s CBD district, [email protected] will leave one spellbound as the restaurant boasts a splendid view, overlooking MBS and the Fullerton Bay area. The décor by award-winning architectural firm, Super Potato, was similarly sublime. Entering via a private elevator guests are greeted by a see-through wine-cellar, then led through a narrow path to the expansive dining area which has panelling that allows shards of light to cut through, resembling an illuminated night sky.
[email protected] is really 3 restaurants in one – with a team of 3 chefs helming the Chinese (Justin Hor Chee Keong), French (Laurent Peugeot) and Japanese (Masayasu Yonemura) front. Regrettably, it is a classic case of “too many chefs, spoil the broth.”
Let us be polite and start with the most palatable dish. Justin Hor’s signature dish was easily the favourite of the night. The citrusy twang of the Baked Cod Fish in Whole Orange (SGD 24) enhanced the freshness of the dish, and was well-paired alongside the pulpy Thai pomelo salad and silky smooth texture of the cod.
The slippery foie gras and grainy brioche in Foie Gras Torchon Pear & Fig Chutney, Ginger Bread Powder, Toasted Brioche (SGD 28) did not sit well with our tastebuds as it lacked cohesion, and could be equated to a failed French marriage.
Progressively, the menu began to lose momentum. “Kamo Sumiso” Salad Seared Duck Breast (SGD 22) comprising chunks of smoked duck paired with slivers of Japanese Leek Gelée and doused in Mustard & Miso Sauce, was uninspired and a tad too savoury for my liking.
With such a hefty price tag, we expected mini-fireworks erupting in our mouth but sadly the Yin Yang Pomfret (SGD 120) did not deliver. No doubt the fish was fresh, but the combination of spices uses was anything but extraordinary. Such a dish could be found at your neighbourhood ‘zi char‘ store for less than a quarter of the price.
Leaving aside the unimpressive dinner menu, the only redeeming factor of [email protected] is the stellar night view which will take your breath away.
This was an invited tasting.