Milan Mens Fashion Week Fall 2012/13 | Day 3 – Z Zegna & Versace
In what is probably Milan’s best mens showing in years, our fashion writers chime in on the spectacle that is Milan Mens Fashion Week – with the Z Zegna & Versace collections.
Review: Shah Salimat
We know Anna Dello Russo for being outrageous with her fashion choices, but who knew she was to be the hotly touted editrix de force at Zegna’s diffusion line show? Z Zegna is not Brad Goreski-loud, but its panache is just right for that Details subscriber who is secretly hiding in the closet (Kidding! The Details part, not the panache part). Dandy was the buzzword, with sharp silhouettes and classics given a lil’ kick in the ass. We saw lots of teal this season – perfect colour for the somberness of Fall. Long-sleeved shirts were jockey-like, with colour-blocked panels, zip-up fronts and nappa leather gloves. Obsessed over the glistening mahogany brown leather coat, which is about as ostentatious as the younger Zegna man will get. Clean and unfussy yet stylish and suave, Paul Surridge delivers with this mainstay that will definitely stand the test of time, no matter which Fall season it is. Now, about that hoodie…
It started with something decent – several good looking models clad in pinstripe dark blue suits, looking like true blue Italian mobsters. Then somewhere along the line, its radar went off and in came colourful flower-power futuristic (and rich) hippie troops on the runway. When you see someone walking in a skintight red floral camouflage jumpsuit, you know this spells “doom”. It’s a pity though; the blue military trench coat accompanying the look is a total beauty.
Well, I kind of expected flamboyance from the giant Italian fashion house but Versace takes it one notch too many and the entire collection ended up looking chaotic and honestly very disheveled. Donatella made her point that this is a very colourful collection with the use of neon yellow, green, pink, dark burgundy and crimson Shanghai red, pairing it in military-looking bomber jackets and trench coats. While some looks did paid off, some were too flamboyant for my liking.
Chain and studded jackets with glittering silver and gold chain barette hats were also part of the ensemble which reminds me of the late Michael Jackson – I’m sure I’m not the only one noticing that. The one that takes the cake has got to be the red with blue sash silk pajamas outfit; it was appalling that it even made it on the runway!
It was not all shame for all the 47 looks in the collection; there were few notable pieces that made it to my 10 best looks. In conclusion, it is that type of collection that is meant for very specific people who dare to take the liberty to be different. If you are one who defies gravity and senses, this one for you.